Frequently Asked Questions
Will colors vary from the picture?
Every monitor is different. We really work very hard to take good
pictures.
The way I explain this is that I am sure you have been in an
Electronics Store where they have 50 or more TV's displayed and often
many are on the same channel yet some colors look different.
All colors will vary from batch to batch. All leather takes stain, oil
and finishes different so it is impossible for a saddle, breast
collar, headstall, etc to match perfectly.
How do I measure for Chaps or Chinks?
To measure the out seam (OS) you measure from the top of their belt
down the outside of the leg to the floor with their riding boots on.
This is the out seam (OS).
To measure the waist measurement. This should be measured over the
jeans and the belt because they will wear them over everything.
Your last measurement needed is the inseam. From the top of the crotch
on the inside of the leg down the inside of the leg to the floor with
riding boots on. This is your inseam measurement.
Please note that we cannot guarantee a fit but only guarantee we will
make your chaps to the measurements you supply us so please measure
carefully and ask questions first.
What size Chaps or Chinks will fit my child ?
Based on your child’s out seam is how you decided what chap they will
need.
Toddler Chap OS 17"
Peewee Chap OS 22"
Junior Chap OS 26"
Youth Chap OS 29-30"
Youth XL OS 32"
Adult XS OS 34"
Adult S OS 36"
Junior & Youth Vest
The Junior is the smaller of the two. The Junior is made for kids who
want to ride calves or mutton bust......it is approx 17 1/2 inch from
neck to waist with Velcro adjustment on both sides. It measures 17
inches across measuring from side seam to side seam and also has
Velcro adjustments on both sides.
The Youth size is for older kids (all depending on the kid) who want
to ride steers....it measures 20 1/2 inches from neck to waist with
Velcro adjustment on both sides. It measures 18 1/2 inches across
measuring from side seam to side seam and also has Velcro adjustments
on both sides.
I have a customer whose son is 5 and they use the junior vest.
I have a son who is eleven and very skinny and he uses the youth and
my middle son is 13 and already in an adult vest. Every kid is
different but I hope this helps. These are really nice quality vest
and also look great.
Why use a Bull-rope pad?
PRO TIP - LYLE SANKEY
"While the pad is no magic cure-all, it does help by filling out the
bull's back and allowing a much more comfortable positioning of the
riding hand. By minimizing the variable, you can focus on the
essential aspects of your bull riding on a consistent basis. A good
bull rope pad can help do this. Every bull rider should carry a pad,
even if you choose to only use it on the ones with bad backs. It'll
make you money in the long run."
What about your bull ropes ?
Bull Rope Style and Design
Most of our ropes will be a 9 X 9 plait or 9 X 7 plait (right or left
your choice). The tail is approx 7 1/2 ft measured from the block and
the body is approx 7 1/2 ft including the loop (open). You will find
most bull rope are going to be approx 15 ft (total) that are designed
for Full Sized Bulls. Our ropes are all hand made and do vary
slightly.
Our ropes are made from Polypropylene and it holds up well. Years ago
bull ropes were made from Manila Grass and did not have leather laced
in them. The leather lacing is a oiled tanned Latigo lace that is hand
cut. Braiding a Bull rope takes years of braiding experience and
knowledge.
The block and handhold is the heart of a rope. We offer Standard
American Style Bull Ropes (however Brazilian Style, Offset handholds,
etc are also offered). The block is double laced, very stiff, and
designed to not tip or roll.
You should consider the price range when buying a rope. The basic
Starter Style rope will be between $80.00 and $100.00. This is a
beginner’s starter rope. A better rope may cost upwards of $250.00 and
up. Many Bull riding instructors will encourage students to start with
a high quality professional style rope in the $200.00 and up price
range although not everyone can afford one.
Our starter type ropes are generally 9 X 9 plait which is a softer
type tail. On our more expensive ropes you can get "Soft, Extra soft,
Baby nine, and tight plait tails, etc.
The starter rope has a "Half Laced" handhold and on more expensive
ropes a "Full Laced" handhold is an option.
Bottom-line the better the rope the more it cost....the more it cost
the longer it last and often the less roll or tip. Bull riding is a
very dangerous Sport and we always encourage everyone to buy the best
rope they can afford as it will pay off in the long run....mainly with
fewer hang-ups and trips to the hospital....Safety First!
What is Sterling Silver Overlay?
OVERLAY is a process of taking nickel silver and applying a layer of
solid sterling silver....it is many times thicker than "Plated". The
overlay is then engraved, etc....whereas plated items are engraved and
then plated with a very thin electro plate of silver.
The process of using sterling silver overlay is done by the finest
silversmith. It has the great appearance of solid sterling at a
reduced cost but will far out last plated products.
Of course there are good quality plated items and cheap quality plated
items. Not all plated items are cheap....for instance some of the
finest dinnerware (forks, spoons, etc) are plated.
Sterling overlay is much better and more expensive than plated but not
as high a solid sterling silver.
How do I install a horn cap?
You drill a pilot hole in the horn.....half the size of the screw.
Take care not to go thru the horn cap.
Since all saddles are different you may need to cut down the screw to
the proper length.....you can often cut the screw with a wire cutter
and then it needs to
be filed or ground with a grinder to a point.
I add a small amount of saddle glue to the hole where the saddle horn
cap goes in and then carefully screw it in.
I large number of the people who purchase these take them to their
local saddle shop for professional installation but many folks do
install them on their own.
So not to do any damage to your saddle I strongly suggest going slowly
and making sure you understand the process.
Are your spurs and bits made in the USA?
We really try hard to not sell junk....We get these from noted
suppliers of western tack and supplies.
As to the country of origin, most bits and spurs offered anymore are
made overseas by USA owned companies who have moved their
manufacturing and/or assembly facilities overseas for lower labor
rates....(for better or worse).....
This applies to many of the largest companies around including Kelly
Bits and Spurs, Sims Bits and Spurs, Blackwood Spurs, Greg Darnell,
Partrade Company, Les Vogt Performax Edition Spurs and many others.
There are very, very few companies that offer
a USA made spur or bit.
The only American made spurs we have available to us start at approx
$200.00 per pair.
I will say that there are cheap imported products but there are also
some that are high quality.....you can no longer just throw them all
in one pot as "Cheap imported items".
Keeping in mind that this item sells for under $50.00 I think it is a
good solid value for the money. I recently had Don Rogers of Hereford,
Texas (a noted Texas Spur and Bit maker) make me a pair of spurs and
spur strap buckles and it was over $400.00 and
they were working spurs and nothing fancy.
Will these spurs fit me?
The standard heel opening on most adult spurs is approx 3 inches.
These will fit most men's boots up to the average size 11....but some
size 12 are borderline....I wear a 13EE and most of these will not fit
me.
The average women’s heel opening is approx 2 ¾ inches and the average
kids spur heel opening is about 2 ½ inches.
These measurements are merely averages so please ask first.
Will a cribbing collar cure cribbing on my horse?
Well it is really hard to say.....this is really more for Cribbing
"wind suckers" rather than horses that merely chew wood.
I have a horse that sucks wind and in the process bites or chews wood
and it works for him.....and we hear good reports from customers.
There is also a safety issue about placing it on a horse in a pasture
as there is always the risk of a hang-up or choking....this has a
nylon strap that would not break easily.
There really is no cure for cribbing.....This product works in most
cases but not on all horses.....
If your horse is just chewing wood he may quit when placed in a
pasture and often if there is another horse it will help as it is most
likely a nervous habit.
If he is Sucking Wind" then he may continue.....when he sucks wind the
horse will normally hang there top teeth on a piece of wood, etc and
then quickly suck in
wind....this causes an Endorphin Release that is very pleasurable and
is habit forming....in a mature horse it is normally very hard to
control and these devises (at best) just slow it down.
When do you need splint boots?
Splint boots should be worn at all times. They provide protection to
the splint and cannon bones should they be inadvertently struck by the
hoof and/or shoe of the opposite foot. Some splint boots provide extra
support for the tendons.
What about bell boots?
Bell boots protect the coronet band from being struck by the hoof or
shoe. This is particularly important in the early stages of teaching a
horse to spin. Bell boots also protect the bulbs and heels of the
front feet from the toe of the hind feet when a horse is sliding.
Extra care should be given to keep bell boots clean. Sand accumulating
in them will irritate the ankles, which can lead to a serious
condition known as 'scratches'.
When do you need knee boots?
In some cases horses will rub one knee against the other while
spinning. Knee boots should be used until the horse learns to spin
without interfering.
What about skid boots?
Skid boots should be used when the horse is being worked on sliding
stops. Particular attention should be paid to keeping skid boots
clean. When using leather boots, keep them well oiled. Stiff or dirty
skid boots will could cause scalding.
What size Blevins Buckles to get?
When we describe a Blevins Buckle as a "3 inch Blevins Buckles" it
does not refer to the outside measurement (dimension) of the buckle in
any way. It is referring to the size of Stirrup Leather it is intended
to be used on. In other words a 2 1/2 inch Blevins Buckle it made for
a 2 1/2 inch wide stirrup leather and so on. The 2 1/2 inch and 3 inch
size are available with either Vertical or Horizontal Post. Please
note that on all Vertical Post Blevins Buckles have a Leather Covered
Sleeve. The Horizontal Post Blevins Buckles all have Stainless Steel
all metal Sleeves. The exception is the 2 inch buckle and is only made
in a vertical post metal sleeve design. Blevins Buckle Company only
makes a 2 inch, 2 1/2 inch and 3 inch size buckle, NOTHING larger or
smaller. You will need 4 or 6 copper rivets and burrs (not included)
to install each pair of Blevins Buckle depending on the size. Blevins
Buckle Company is located in Wheatland, Wyoming USA. We do offer a
Blevins Buckle installation Kit complete with Copper Rivets and Burrs
with detailed instructions including diagrams.
What is Hermann Oak Leather?
Hermann Oak Leather is leather tanned by the Hermann Oak Leather
company in St. Louis,
Missouri. The Hermann Oak Leather company has been making leather
since 1881 when
Lewis Charles Hermann started the business to accommodate the local
harness trade and
to supply wagon loads of settlers on their way West.
Since 1881 the Hermann Oak Leather Company has earned the reputation
of being the
premier leather manufacturer in the United States. Their specialty is
vegetable
tanning, a type of tanning used to make leather for many uses,
including saddle
making. Hermann Oak Leather can be found in certain saddles made by
such prestigious
saddle makers as Circle Y, Billy Cook, and more.
What is the gullet size in most pony saddles?
Most Pony saddles have a "Pony Tree" with 4 1/2 inch gullet.
They customarily do not make pony saddles with Quarter horse trees
(with a 6 3/4 inch gullet) as the seat would be so wide it would be
uncomfortable for a child to ride.
If it helps I raised 4 kids on a saddle like this and rode Shetland
ponies all the way to large AQHA horses.
If you ride a full size horse you will a full size cinch, tie strap
and off billets.
What is a Mecate Reins & Slobber Straps:
Slobber straps are a double strap of leather with a hole in both ends.
They are normally used with a snaffle and mecate reins. The slobber
straps are folded and fit through the rings on the bit. They are
designed to be used with a bit that has at least 3" rings so that
there is room for the headstall and slobber straps.
The rein is attached through both straps with a half hitch knot which
allows for easy adjustment and removal -- no matter how hard the rein
gets pulled, this knot will easily loosen.
Slobber straps are especially useful to avoid wear on your mecate
reins and they keep the reins out of the water when your horse gets a
drink. The weight of the slobber straps assist with the mecate reins
in providing an instant release (reward) to the horse when training.
This is essential when you consider that you only have 2-3 seconds to
reward your horse when you get appropriate behavior before the horse
looses the concept of relating the behavior to the reward.
Traditional Mecate
reins (pronounced either muh-caw-tee or McCarty) are made from horse
hair, but can also be made from nylon double braid marine rope. These
reins are normally between 20-22 feet long. Don’t worry, you won’t
have to figure out what to do with an extra 15 feet of rein.
Approximately 8-10 feet are used for the rein and the remaining 10-12
feet are used as a lead rope or popper when in the saddle. The mota is
the thing at the other end of the rope (from the popper) which has the
knot or cluster of horse hair and tassel on it.
Mecate reins are meant to be used with slobber straps and bits with a
3" ring (you need room for the headstall and slobber straps). The
slobber straps protect the mecate and help provide a quick release
(feel) for training. When riding, we usually put the end through our
belt/ belt loop or tuck it into the waist of our pants. Some people
prefer to wrap the end around the saddle horn for easier access. This
is really a personal preference kind of thing.
We prefer the horse
hair mecate for a number of reasons:
1. The horse responds
to the feel of the horse hair on their neck much better than nylon.
2. They look really good on our horses.
But, marine grade rope has it’s advantages too:
1. Feel on your hands. Horse hair takes some time to get used to.
2. Price. Horse hair mecate are hand made – which adds to the cost.
3. Easily washable.
Mecate’s are an excellent training device. Here’s why we like them:
• The weight of the
reins with the slobber straps provides an instant release when working
with a horse. The release is the reward that the horse is seeking when
you ask for something.
• You can teach a horse to neck rein significantly faster with horse
hair mecate reins than with traditional reins.
• You can use the popper to make a correction while in the saddle
without having to go for your progress string.
• When trail riding, you can use the lead to tie your horse safely.
You can’t do this with any other headstall, rein, bit combination that
we know of.
• When schooling your horse, if you want to get off and make a
correction or lunge your horse – you have the lead rope attached and
you are ready to go.
• When working other horses from your horse you can use the lead to
yield the other horse.
How to tie the Mecate Rein:
Tying the Mecate into the slobber straps is easy, Start with the bit
attached to the headstall. You can do this on or off your horse. We’ll
start with the right slobber strap (as if you were on your horse).
• Place the slobber strap through the right ring on the snaffle bit
and fold it over.
• Bring the mota (the mota is the knot or cluster of horse hair and
tassel on the opposite end of the rope from the popper) through the
slobber strap from the outside to the inside, you will pull all of the
rein through the two holes in the slobber strap. You do this by
putting the popper end through the holes first and pull the rein all
the way through.
• Pull the mota about 1 foot out of the end of the slobber strap. You
need some slack for the half hitch.
• Bring the mota under the slobber strap and come up over the top of
the slobber strap. This should form a hole that you drop the mota down
through.
• Pull the slack and snug the half hitch down. The mota keeps the rein
from pulling through the hitch. You’re done with the right side.
On to the left side:
• Measure out the length of rein you want. We prefer a rein between
8-10 feet in length, this is a personal preference kind of thing.
• Place the slobber strap through the left ring on the snaffle bit and
fold it over.
• Thread the popper from the inside out on the left side slobber
strap. Make sure you leave the length of rein you want.
• Bring the popper under the slobber strap and come up the inside and
over the top and back down through the hole forming another half
hitch.
• Pull the slack and snug the half hitch down. You’re done! You may
have to experiment with the length of the rein and popper, but it is
easily adjustable.
) 
