My Grandma's Jewel Chest

JEWELRY SELECTION GUIDE

Gemstones          Diamonds              Vintage Avon

Garnet  = January                                          The 4Cs of Diamond Grading                                    Jewelry and Collectibles

Amethyst = February

Aquamarine = March

Diamond = April

Emerald = May

Pearl / Alexandrite = June

Ruby = July

Peridot = August

Sapphire = September

Opal / Tourmaline = October

Topaz = November

Turquoise / Zircon / >Tanzanite = December

Gemstones

Amethyst
Amethyst is the most highly valued and recognizable gemstone of the quartz family. Its affordable pricing makes it an exceptionally popular choice.  Its colors range from violet to pale red-violet. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, Amethyst is 7.  Its primary sources include Brazil (Rio Granda, Para), Madagascar, Zambia, Uruguay, Burma (Myanmar), India, Canada, Mexico, Namibia, Russia, Sri Lanka and the United States (Arizona).

Even hard gemstones require some special care.  Untreated Amethysts may still fade in color with extended direct sun exposure.  Some Amethysts are treated to improve their color.  With these, we must also avoid exposure to high heat.  Use a soft cloth or soft toothbrush, warm water and a mild dish detergent to clean your gemstones.   

Citrine
Citrine is a quartz crystal. While its name refers to a lemon yellow color, Citrine can be found in a range of yellows from light yellow to dark yellow and also golden brown. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, Citrine is 7. Sources include Brazil, Madagascar, the United States, Argentina, Burma (Myanmar), Namibia, Russia, Scotland and Spain.

On occasion, Citrines are heated to improve their color.  Normal care should be taken with your Citrine gems.  Even hard gemstones require some special care.  Washing on a regular basis with a soft cloth or toothbrush with warm water and a gentle dishwashing liquid should do the trick!

Garnet
Garnet is the name given to a group of minerals, which have in common a crystal structure and similar (but not exact) chemical composition. The main Garnet groups include pyrope, almandite, spessartite, grossularite, andradite and uvarovite.  On Mohs’ scale of hardness, garnet is 6.5-7.5. This wide-ranging family of gemstones covers virtually EVERY color and is found all around the world.

Even hard gemstones require some special care.  Since Garnets are rarely treated to produce their gorgeous color, normal care should be taken with your Garnet gems.  Washing on a regular basis with a soft cloth or toothbrush with warm water and a gentle dishwashing liquid should do the trick!

Ruby is a gemstone in the Corundum family.  The primary sources for rubies include Burma, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Afghanistan, Cambodia, Kenya, Madagascar, and Vietnam.

Ruby                                                                                                                                                                        While Rubies come in a variety of red tones, the most valued color is pure red with a hint of blue, known as pigeon's blood red.  As corundum (aluminum oxide), Rubies and Sapphires are from the same family.  Red corundum are always classified as Rubies, and all other colors are considered Sapphires. The red in Rubies comes from the presence of chromium, and the occasional brownish hues come from the presence of iron.

Rubies are one the hardest and most durable materials on earth.  At 9 on Moh's scale of gemstone hardness, Rubies are second only to Diamonds in hardness.  Rubies are commonly heat treated to improve their color.  A well-cut ruby can approach the brilliant luster of a Diamond. 

Throughout history, Rubies have been considered the "King of gems".  Treasured by royalty, religion, and various cultures, Rubies have mesmerized the world with their beauty.  In ancient India, stories circulated that God created Ruby and then created man to own it.  Many legends suggest that the Ruby was the chief stone in Aaron's Breastplate and the stone of Judah. Because Israel's king came from Judah, the ruby came to be associated with royalty.  Christian leaders often wore Rubies, and even Martin Luther supposedly used a gold ring set with a Ruby as a betrothal ring.  Prior to the 20th century, Rubies were considered 8 times more valuable than diamonds.

From Chaucer to Shakespeare to Emerson, writers have praised the stone for its beauty, fire, and rarity.  Today, Rubies are considered a remarkable investment for their hardness, beauty and rarity and their respective prices.

To care for your Rubies is really quite simple.  Due to their hardness and durability, almost any cleaning technique is acceptable including ultrasonic cleaners, steamers, sudsy water and brushes.

Sapphire
While Sapphire and Ruby are both corundum, they are distinguished by color.  All red corundum is Ruby and everything else is Sapphire.  While Sapphire can come in a variety of color, it is most noted for the color blue, “cornflower blue” in particular. Sapphires other than blue are often referred to as “fancy sapphire.”  While there is a wide range of color, the most popular colors include padparadscha (a light to medium toned, orange pink), pink sapphire and orange sapphire.

 Like Rubies, Sapphires are one of the hardest and most durable materials on earth.  At 9 on Mohs’ scale of gemstone hardness, Sapphires  and Rubies are second only to diamonds.

The history of Sapphire can be a little confusing because it has often been confused with other stones like Lapis Lazuli. It wasn’t until the early 1800s that Sapphire and Ruby were recognized as being the family of corundum. The name Sapphire may derive from the Greek Sanskrit sanipriya, meaning “dear to the planet Saturn.”  Its deep blue color seems to embody the deep blue sky.

Legend suggests that the Ten Commandments were inscribed on Sapphire. Of course, due to its hardness that would be a miracle indeed.  Various cultures have treasured the beauty and virtues of Sapphire. Ancient Egyptian physicians prescribed grinding it and forming a wash to help the eyes. It was also prescribed for indigestion, scorpion bites, boils, and more.

The Christian church also valued its presence. Pope Innocent II required all bishops to wear Sapphire rings on their hand of blessing. And some writers have suggested that it is one of the foundation stones mentioned in Revelation, representing the apostle Paul because of his mystic encounter in the third heavens. 

To care for your Sapphires is really quite simple.  Due to their hardness and durability, almost any cleaning technique is acceptable including ultrasonic cleaners, steamers, sudsy water and brushes.

Tanzanite

The mineral, zoisite, was discovered around 1805 in Austria by a Baron for whom it was named.  It was usually brown in color and, often quite opaque.  The discovery by accident of the tanzanite version, in the late 1960’s was a great surprise in Tanzania Africa, where it was first thought to be sapphire crystals.  Tiffany, who had first and exclusive rights to the pretty blue violet mineral for many years, coined the name Tanzanite. 

Wearing a well-cut tanzanite communicates self-confidence, individuality, and maturity.  Its brilliant color and its exclusive origin in Tanzania combine to make Tanzanite a unique and highly sought after gemstone.  Tanzanite is a variety of zoisite.  It has naturally occurring shades of blue, green, yellow, pink, brown and khaki but virtually all gemstone quality crystals are heat treated to produce the highly valued shades of sapphire blue, amethyst and blue violet. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, Tanzanite is 6.5-7. The prime source of all the world’s Tanzanite is in Tanzania near Arusha. 

On Moh’s scale of hardness, Tanzanite rates 6.5 -7.  But even hard gemstones require some special care.  All gem quality Tanzanites are heat treated to create their popular blue – violet – purple color.  Tanzanites are quite delicate and prone to chipping or cracking, therefore, should not be worn during a strenuous workout where a sharp blow may become a Tanzanite fatality!  Use a soft cloth or soft toothbrush, warm water and a mild dish detergent to clean your Tanzanites.

Topaz
Topaz is a gemstone found in vivid colors. Exhibiting a wide range of colors, it appears as yellow, orange, red-brown, light to dark blue, pink-red, red, violet, light green, colorless and in unusual colors such as mystic, ocean, glacier, patriot, canary, champagne, orchid, dawn, teal and kiwi.

On Mohs’ scale of hardness, it is 8. Topaz has a vitreous luster and sources include Brazil (Minas Gerais), Afghanistan, Australia, Burma (Myanmar), China, Japan, Madagascar, Mexico, Namibia, Nigeria, Pakistan, Russia (Urals, Transbaikalia), Zimbabwe, Sri Lanka and the United States.

On Moh’s scale of hardness, Topaz rates an 8.  But even hard gemstones require some special care.  With the exception of White and Brown Topaz, most Topaz are “treated” in order to improve, enhance, or create their exquisite colors.   These colors can fade, if not properly cared for.  For this reason, avoid bright lights for extended periods of time, harsh chemicals, extreme heat and steam.  Mystic, Ocean, Glacier, Patriot, Canary, Champagne, Orchid, Dawn, Teal, Kiwi (and others) are treated with special coatings to produce a variety of colors (chemical vapor deposition).  These gems must avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, extreme heat and recutting / repolishing.

Diamonds

Grading Diamonds
The four "C"s of diamond grading, as commonly used with in the jewelry industry, are:

     Carat Weight
     Clarity
     Color
     Cut
  

Carat Weight
Diamonds are weighed in carats and each carat is composed of 100 points. For example, 0.5ct represents a 1/2 carat diamond of 50 points.  Beyond carats, diamonds are sometime times referred to in "grains".  For example a "four grainer" is a 1.0 carat stone where each grain is equal to 0.25ct or 25 points. Because the supply of larger diamonds is limited, the larger the diamond size, the higher its proportionate value. Four 0.25ct diamonds of the same quality will have less combined value than a single 1.0ct diamond of identical quality.

Carat describes the actual weight of a diamond, not its size. Due to the differences in density, some diamonds will weigh more than others. Therefore, two different sized diamonds may both weigh 1.0ct.  In addition, it is difficult to equate the diameter of a diamond with its carat weight.  Much of the diamond's weight lies beneath the setting where it can vary in depth.


Clarity
Clarity grading is determined by the location, type and extent of inclusions or blemishes in the diamond. Inclusions exist inside the diamond, whereas blemishes are on the surface. Inclusions can appear to be dark flakes or spots.  Blemishes often appear as cracks or scratches.  The grading scales used by the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) is the most well known:

     Flawless (no inclusions under 10x loupe)
     IF (internally flawless - blemishes exist)
     VVS (very, very slightly included 1 or 2 - minute inclusions)
     VS (very slightly included 1 or 2 - minor inclusions)
     SI (slightly included 1 or 2 - noticeable inclusions)
     I (imperfect 1, 2 or 3 - observable inclusions)

Grading is performed with at least a 10X power loupe or microscope by a trained technician. Inclusions graded I1, I2 and I3 can be seen by the naked eye. Often, the term "imperfect" will be used instead of "included" when describing VVS, VS and SI diamonds.

Clarity should not be confused with "brilliance".  Clarity does not affect a diamond's brilliance. It is the cut of the diamond that determines the brilliance.  The nature of the diamond's cut directs the reflection of light through the cut surfaces of the stone creating "brilliance".

Color
The GIA scale for color grading, ranges from D to Z, with D being colorless and Z being heavily colored. Colorless diamonds (D, E, and F) are more valuable.

     Colorless D E F
     Near Colorless G H I J
     Faint Yellow Tint K L M
     Very Light Yellow Tint N – R
     Light Yellow Tint S – Z

Sometimes the setting of the diamond will mute or exaggerate it's tinting.  For example, a white gold or platinum setting will enhance the diamonds whiteness.  A yellow gold setting partially masks a diamond's yellow color, making it appear whiter.

Cut
Diamonds are desirable for their beauty which is a combination of  "fire" and "brilliance".  Fire is the dazzle of colors from within and brilliance is the burst of sparkling light that appears to be emitted from the diamond. Cut refers to the structure of the faceting as well as the symmetry, proportion and finish. The three basic styles of faceting are:

Brilliant Cut                                    Step Cut

                   

The brilliant cut uses many triangular and kite-shaped facets to maximize sparkle. The step cut uses fewer facets and more trapezoids and rectangles. A mixed cut combines the step and brilliant cut structures.

If the stone is improperly cut, light is improperly reflected and lost through the bottom or sides reducing its sparkle and beauty. Most full cut round brilliant cut diamonds have either 57 or 58 facets.

Diamond Shape

The most popular cut diamond shapes today are:

Popular Diamond Cuts
Round	Oval	Pear	Princess	Radiant	Heart	Triangle	Emerald	Marquise

Vintage Avon Costume Jewelry and Collectables

All our vintage Avon costume jewelry is new, unworn, and in the original box, unless otherwise stated.  These items are from the estate of a forty year Avon representative.  When in doubt, we consult the Hastin's guide or other published experts in the field.

@Copyright My Grandma's Jewel Chest 2006